Moving on: So I got this wonderful jersey from Girl Charlee and had no idea what I was going to do with it. I just fell in love and had to have it.
|Isn't it wonderful?!|
|Here we go!|
I got smart laying out the pattern for this one, cheating on the back (not seen) by moving the fold and cutting on it so I didn't have to worry with the button closure (keyhole backs are for the birds). And I'm very thankful that I did...(intrigued? Read on! (Sorry.))
One of the things I love most about my sewing blogs is learning about all the wonderful accouterments used by people who know what they're doing. I had seen several people raving about Emma Seabrooke's fine knit stay tape. I ran into quite a bit of trouble with my knits over the summer - any place even slightly bias cut just disintegrated. So when I started working with the colorblock dress, I bought the black 1/2". Best $8 I've ever spent. The armsyches, the neckline, the center back where the zipper went in - they all stayed just where they were supposed to. It was wonderful. So I used it on this one, too...
|There's a possibility I may have gotten carried away.|
The next thing was to make up the sleeves - easy-peasy, three darts at the top of the sleeve and one at the elbow that I probably could have omitted, but I got these wonderful marking pens for Christmas that I'm kind of addicted to at this point...so dart me up! Then just a seam down the back, hemmed, and set in - only one problem. They are...snug. Sausage casings, if you will. I have large arms, and I should have experimented with the slash-and-spread on the bicep. But I didn't. So I deliberated the merits of unpicking them and making new from the remnant I had from my smart cutting. Which is what I did. Having made them (again), I'm still not certain I made the adjustment correctly: I cut the whole pattern piece up the printed grainline to a half an inch of the sleeve cap, and then got to looking at the immense difference it made in the opening...so, new plan. I drew a perpendicular line to the grainline across the bottom of the cap and cut that section of the back half off so I now have three parts to the pattern:
|Wow, what a mess that looks - I'm getting ready to trace it off to some wrapping paper, I promise. After this next project...|
It worked - I still don't think I did it correctly, but it worked. I had less ease in the gathering at the top of the sleeve than I did originally...which doesn't make any sense at all, now that I think of it. But whatever. It worked and it's done.
|See? Done! (And one day I'll actually be presentable in these pictures I post...)|
I have a few quibbles with the final product. First, the fabric - it really might as well be a woven. Very little give. VERY. And it washed up a little stiff - doesn't have the same hand that all of the other fabric I've ordered from Girl Charlee. I would guess that's the 20/20 poly/rayon content, so I now know to avoid that for tops. But it's still the cutest, and the shirt's going to be precious loose with black pants and tucked into a skirt that I don't really wear anymore. (Hooray for getting more use from existing pieces!)
Second, the pattern - I think that they next time I make it, I need to carve about an inch off the shoulder measurement. Gennie and I mostly match, but I think I must have measured my shoulders wrong when I was getting her set up. The shirt fits her perfectly, but I don't like where the sleeve cap hits me. I had the exact same problem with a costume I made a while ago - ended up pinning the sleeves a good half inch further in than was called for, and still have to tug them to have it look right. This is odd, because I've always thought myself broad-shouldered. Is it possible I'm not? Or is it just that dumb ease issue again? Or something else entirely that I will never fully understand?
Also, I have this trouble all the time, too: what's all this puddling/rigidity in my collars? WHAT IS IT, I beg. I did the facing strictly on the bias, as instructed, and I used the smallest amount possible to prevent the stand that I got on my (otherwise all time favorite bird shirt). There is approximately an eighth on an inch captured for that thing, and yet it stands. I can't figure it out, folks.
|What am I doing wrong here?!|
At any rate, this was item number two for January - I have a low-aiming goal of two garments every month this year (I'd love to do more, but with rehearsals and work and the occasional social outing, it's just not realistic, and if I aim too high and fail I'll get disappointed and frustrated). Next up: a rub-off/self-drafted/draped shirt (no, I don't know what I'm doing).